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Acclimate plants carefully to prevent burning foliage

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By Jeneen Wiche

I made a big mistake last year and burned up my Kalanchoes - it took the entire summer for these cool succulents to recover.  
I will not make that mistake again. After adding another crinkled-leaf variety to my collection that I purchased from Gallrein’s greenhouses last week, I set to the task of resetting our patio with plants and seat cushions.  
I was very mindful of providing some afternoon shade for my succulent collection.   As excited as we are for spring, we must be slow with our houseplants as we transition from indoors to out.  
Nothing compares to the restorative powers of the great outdoors:  more light, warmth, higher relative humidity and rain water, this is what all our indoor plants are longing for.   
We winter over all sorts of plants from year to year: angel wing begonias, ferns, palms and favored succulents.  
They spend the winter in a restful state in a windowed basement or about the house.  
I’ve had pest problems only with the gardenia (I stand by my belief in neem oil as the best botanical pest control for treating plants in the fall before you bring them indoors). At this point all I need to do is get the plants trimmed up, repotted if necessary, fertilized and acclimated for their summer holiday outdoors.
First thing first, if a plant has a woody habit (like many aged tropicals do) trim up the oldest parts reserving the most vigorous parts of the plant.  
Shape up the rest making your cuts just above nodes where new growth is emerging.   
I have a tendency to cut away more than less, don’t be bashful, once the plants are outside and it gets hot and humid, tropicals are in their element and will respond by putting on lots of new growth.  
This is where fertilization will help, as well.  
A diluted solution at watering time every couple of weeks is a good way to deliver extra nutrients to a hard-working plant.
If plants have clearly become too big for their pots or there is more root mass compared to soil, then you may consider repotting.  
Bump the plant up only one pot-size larger and use a potting mixture that reflects the needs of the plants.  
For instance, a succulent will prefer a grittier mixture that drains well; a gardenia will like a potting soil and compost mixture that will provide extra nutrients and retain some moisture.  
Probably the most important thing to do for our sad looking plants is to take plenty of time transitioning them outside for the season.  
Do it slowly because the sun this time of the year is hotter than you think and when a plant moves from the filtered light of a sunny window in the basement to the full sun of the porch, the foliage will get burned up in a matter of a couple of hours.  
Take several weeks to acclimate your plants to the direct rays of the sun.  
Some plants can replace foliage at a faster rate than others; some only do it once a year … don’t burn up these because you will have to wait several seasons before they can recover.  
All of this applies to your leafy houseplants, as well, although they typically require less pruning clean-up.  
If you move them out, be sure to do it extra slowly, though.  
Tropical flowering plants typically have glossier or fuzzy foliage that can withstand bright light a bit better than the thinner foliage of plants like the peace lily and pothos.  
The average leafy houseplant will do well if it is located where it will get filtered light all day or morning sun and afternoon shade.  
I have a tendency to group plants near the water spigot for easy watering throughout the summer.  If you have problems with critters digging around in your pots try putting pine cones, terracotta pot shards (a good use of broken pots) or a few strategically placed mid-sized stones (a good use of pretty stones you may have collected on our travels) to prevent easy scratching.